Complete RV Solar Install For Boondocking / Dry Camping Part 1 of 3 – RV Upgrades



Part 1 of our RV solar install series focuses on installing the solar panels and the solar controller to harness the power of the sun! This 3 part series shows the complete installation Go Power! Solar Extreme Kit to allow us to live off the cord. Check out the blog post for more details: https://www.fateunbound.com/rv-solar-review/

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Parts installed in this video:
Go Power! Solar Extreme Kit: http://amzn.to/2gP1w6W
Go Power! 30 Amp Solar Controller: http://amzn.to/2Adi40K
Go Power! Overlander 160W Solar Panel: http://amzn.to/2xQTD86
MC4 Solar Connectors: http://amzn.to/2A0tDsa

This is only part 1 of our 3 part RV solar install series. Here we mount the solar panels to the roof of the RV, wire them in parallel, and install the solar controller. The goal of this RV solar system is to allow us to boondock and dry camp with AC power and never have to worry about running out of electricity!

Gear used to shoot this video:
Sony a6000: http://amzn.to/2qYcZIA
Sony Action Cam: http://amzn.to/2qY0EUA
Sony Gun/Zoom Microphone: http://amzn.to/2pUKiMD
Gutman Microphone Windscreen: http://amzn.to/2q2zoAg
Sony Lightweight Tripod: http://amzn.to/2q2yIuw
JOBY GorillaPod: http://amzn.to/2q5mNeX

Music Credits
* Diviners feat. Contacreast – Tropic Love (Provided by NCS) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6RJv7f__Mg
Diviners Youtube Channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgyvbgyRw1pVKOcOIxvB6qA

* Cormak – Flavors (Provided by NCS) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRJgj8OTIvA
Cormak’s Youtube Channel –
https://www.youtube.com/user/OfficialCormak

*Affiliate Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

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49 thoughts on “Complete RV Solar Install For Boondocking / Dry Camping Part 1 of 3 – RV Upgrades

  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Personally, I would've used terminal connections. But staying with the way you did it, you should've undone the wire nut on the fuse install. That way you know had one butt splice. Also, I think you should put a kill switch from behind the controller.

    I know we're "Sunday Quarterbacking" you. LOL

    Other than that nice vid.

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Vibration on the road,would make flux and solder every connection, as you go. a hinge on your access panel would help anytime future inspections are needed.

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Hi there. Great video. Am definitely considering solar now! Quick question, did you use a specific type of diocor (self leveling, etc) for sealing up?

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    what do you do to stop the wire from moving when going down the road I would have put it in some pipe or conduit of some kind and that looks like a lot of wholes in the top ( sealed or not there still wholes)

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    I'm Happy You Got Your Solar Running Right Away, WIthout Flaw… I'm A Retired Gov't Mechanic & Inspector, And Can Think Back To When I Was Your Age And The Relief You Feel After A Big Project Turns Successful Is Elating… Congrats To You And Your Family… Good Job…

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Fantastic videos young man. I just bought a Forest River Rockwood Geo Pro 19FBS, No Solar. One of the upgrades in my list is to Upgrade it with a solar system. Inside on a wall it has a template/image of the Go Power 30A Controller. I assume there are wires behind. Comments and recommendations are welcome

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Good video. Are you still tilting panels? Such a pain. If you have the room, another panel is the answer.

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    It has been two years but there are a couple of extra things that you could have done to make it better.

    You could have put the wires on the roof inside some conduit to protect them from the elements.

    You could have put split tubing inside the car and especially on the parts that the wires can rub.

    You didn't need to use the wire nuts and cut the cables to splice. Adding some ring terminals and connecting them to the fuse box would have done the same.

    To add the fuse you added an extra cut to the wire. You should have taken the end of your positive cable from the original cable nut to start from the fuse cable.

    I hope it is still working great for you. Nice video.

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    INTERESTING VIDEO! JUST CURIOUS, DID YOU NAIL THE SOLAR WIRING DOWN TO THE ROOF? I USUALLY SEE RV TAPE AND ZIP TIES. ENJOY!

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    How do I know if my trailer's okay withstanding that much weight without eventual warping?

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Get in the habit of wearing a hat when you work outside like that. It really helps.

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Seriously dude you could have done the splice anywhere along the line like under the fridge using a junction box attached a panel.

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Connecting through your RV Converter, I've read where you will lose 10% – 15% of what is coming into your solar panels. More efficient if you plan for thick and short wires directly to the battery?

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    PWR really – I would say you really need to think about MPPT with more that one panel, better all round

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Can you explain why you ran the panels in Parallel instead of in Serial? I'm still trying to figure out which does what? LOL ..

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Man thanks so much for this video. I'm installing the same panels but not the kit. Question, is the wire from the panel array down to solar controller the same photo voltaic wire that is used on the roof or is it different type of wire? Thanks for your help I really appreciate your channel. We buy from your amazon page I hope it helps. Sincerely, Richard

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Keep in mind the shade from your tree is blocking a bit of the panels . Great to see it is working .

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    I guess the old saying you get what you pay for is true. Really enjoyedvideo . i have a palamino truck camper with the factory forced air heat /thermostat . i added a wave three and use it when i have no electrical hook up or if i need to conserve 12 volt. I have to admit the wave dose make some condensation but is a lot better than being cold if you are low on power.

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Great tip to run wires down refrigerator vent. Plus gaining access to batteries by using the battery connections at the converter. My converter is right under my refrigerator. Making my install super easy. Super job of explaining each step. One tip though – If you do not connect the solar panels until the end of all the other connections required you would not have needed to cover the panels with cardboard. Other than that its a super explanation of your install. Thanks!!

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    I second putting tape on the wire nuts, especially since you have vibration when the coach is moving, which can cause the wire nuts to loosen.

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Remember, that your rafters in most RVs are trusses made of wood that it Just 1" x1" if that.

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    That panel on the end is gonna be dead weight for most of the day.

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Do you have to mount the panels, or can you just set them up on the ground.??

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Dicor = Cheap
    Laeky Rotton RV Roof = Expensive
    Thanks for sharing your experience.

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    Nice video can I maybe ask why did you not try and run the fuse into one of the empty spots on the panel so that you can access it from the front please

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    you can put wind generator when rv movie you will make power and you can put flex solar panel make shade and make power

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  • August 6, 2020 at 8:18 am
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    The angling on those panels should be a little less and they'd be perfect, you could even make an adjustable one or just buy different size lengths of that steel

    Reply

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