DIY Off-Grid AC Power to Your Entire RV – Inverter Transfer Switch Install



Want to power your RV’s entire 30A electrical system from a POWER INVERTER without new wiring or electrical sub-panel. This transfer switch makes it easy. This is a simple off-grid setup for an RV with 30 amp service, portable generator and/or solar. Watch my DIY Installation. I’ll also explain what an automatic transfer switch does.

This Go Power transfer switch is designed to work with a stand-alone power inverter and stand-alone battery charger. It will provide off-grid 120VAC power to your entire rig and seamlessly switch from inverter power back to shore power.

MORE ABOUT THIS TRANSFER SWITCH on Amazon.com (Affiliate Link)
GoPower GP-TS30 Pre-Wired Transfer Switch: https://amzn.to/37nDBF6

RELATED VIDEOS:
Automatically Disconnect Converter/Charger Using a Relay: https://youtu.be/lqXngyKtZtc
Removing our 4000 Watt Onan Generator: https://youtu.be/oBVJ6BjwenQ

FULL RV SOLAR PARTS LIST
https://www.rvwithtito.com/parts/rv-solar-power

MORE ABOUT THIS EPISODE
I’m just now getting around to installing this transfer switch. My original transfer switch failed many months ago. Since we rarely connect to shore power, we’ve been able to go boondocking and occaisionally stay in RV parks without it.

Replacing my old transfer switch this this model allowed me to remove a previously installed relay I had installed to automatically disconnect my converter/charger while runing my Inverter.

Here’s that previous auto charger disconnect video install: https://youtu.be/lqXngyKtZtc

Having recently removed my onboard generator, there was no need to switch between generator and shore power. Instead I needed to switch between inverter and shore power, while also disabling the battery charger while on inverter power. This transfer switch does exactly that.

We mostly boondock (dry-camp) and power our RV from solar and 400 amp hours of lithium batteries. The 2000W pure sine inverter provides AC power to the entire RV, but will also run the battery charger unless it’s automatically disabled.

See our full off-grid RV solar system: https://www.rvwithtito.com/articles/our-solar

#rvwithtito #diy #rvsolar

DISCLAIMER
The opinions expressed in our videos are our own or from a contributor. Before taking on any project or making a large purchase, we recommend you do your own research and consult a professional for advice. We are NOT liable for any damage to your RV or injury incurred as a result of following our tips, advice or instructions. We are not RV professionals or certified technicians. We are simply RV owners who work on our own RVs and have a desire to share what we learn with others. Be responsible and know your limits.

AFFILIATE DISCLAIMER
This video may include links to merchants with affilliate programs who pay us a commission on purchases made or actions taken after clicking the link. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

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48 thoughts on “DIY Off-Grid AC Power to Your Entire RV – Inverter Transfer Switch Install

  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Brian, thanks for the great video, I have an 08 Winnebago. my tv outlet runs off the inverter and when connected to shore power it runs from ac, I didn't understand how it worked but thanks to your video I have a better understanding of it. I just installed an electric fireplace that the tv is now mounted to the top of can I plug the fireplace into this outlet or should I run a dedicated line from the breaker box?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Thank you! Great video! In your application, you have the shore power wired to the normally open?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Wondering if this set up would work with a solar generator…?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Do they sell this in 50 amp pre wired? That would be ideal for my situation. Or is the pre-wired portion added by GoPower because I don't see this pre wired option for the 30 amp TXFR switch
    on the progressive dynamics website

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Who the fuck has a camera going then starts talking to it… “hey there”

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    As always, awesome job Brian. I was thinking of simply using a manual transfer switch but when searching on YT, I see you're the "top of the pack." In my work career we used huge self-energized transfer switches (carrying 110KW) that operated under the same principle as your configuration. My only reluctance to do so is having a heavy load device running that our UPS/inverter/battery cannot handle for sustained periods – here's my concern…
    You are using shore power from the pedestal on a cold night that is running your central heater. For whatever reason, during the night the shore power silently goes off but your inverter happily picks up the load as best it can. Of course, within a few hours (while you are sleeping) the batteries are depleted and the system shuts down. Do you foresee this scenario as a potential problem or have a mitigation strategy (such as a low power audio warning on your inverter/battery system? Many thanks and happy trails.

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Hi Brian… greetings fron the sunny Gold Coast in Queensland Australia! Always love your informative videos and this partivular video is exactly what i need. Btw… What does "Tito" mean? Maybe being an Aussie doesn't help trying to figure it out! Cheers mate :0)

    Reply
  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Question: Can I use this transfer switch with inputs from shore power, generator and inverter? How would I wire the 3 inputs? Thank you

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    How do you power your 12 volts with out the converter powered do you run a separate wires to the dc side of your panel

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    I can't get anyone nor any manufacture where to find a good quality 30 Amp Transfer Switch that will switch from shore power ..and/or solar
    …and/or generator to supply power to a Class B+ RV and charge batteries ….yet its done everyday.

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Looks great. My only negative comment would be to not use wire nuts. They can fall off from the vibration of going down the road. I use crimp wire nuts for loads above 20 amps and Wago lever nuts for 20 amps and below.

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Hi Tito , what do you have wire from your shore power on your fuse box? Do you have any outlets plug into your 12v fuse box?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Could I use this to trigger my inverter for an off grid system, so when it switches to grid power, it turns the inverter off so it won't drain my battery bank, then back on when they get up to voltage again?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    hi
    i want to install this transfer switch but i have a question,

    i have my original house battery setup 1 house battery from engine bay that operates my low 12v lights and water pump and i have another solar setup of 200ah batteries with inverter that i want to connect the inverter to the transfer switch but when it will operate the inverter it will also operates the converter and sends 12v from 2 places one from the solar battery setup and second from original house battery in engine front,

    how do i connect it so it will work the best???

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Are your neutral and chassis ground bonded in your AC panel? I was wondering what happens here if the shore power already has a neutral/ground bond on their side. Seems like you'd end up with two ground connection points. But, I'm still learning some of this stuff.

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    I'm sure this has been explained somewhere before, but what do you do if you have no inverter, and want to add one that will run through the current electrical system and cover all the AC outlets in your RV? Is there a 3 way transfer switch to use shore power/generator/inverter? I'm confused, but we want to install solar and an inverter that will allow us to use the existing wiring in our RV. I feel uneasy about getting rid of our generator. We have a 2017 Thor Chateau 28Z. We're looking to step up to another RV, but not right now. Thanks in advance.

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    I am wiring the TS 30 to my new cargo trailer/toyhauler. I will have an inverter or shore power for 110v AC. Hence the switch. The TS 30 is nice, as you show in the video, in that it will disconnect the 110V converter. Wire it to the NO contacts of the relay. I'll go you one further. I will basically have three systems to charge the batteries. Solar, shore power, and the trucks charging system when the trailer is plugged in. So could be travelling down the road and the truck and solar will be charging the batteries simultaneously unless I disconnect the solar panels. Think I could wire the solar leads to the NC contacts of the relay and eliminate the solar charging while on shore power and plugged to the truck?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Hi Brian. I have a 1947 Westcraft Travel Trailer, and I’m installing a DIY solar system. I was thinking to run my shore power line through my inverter/charger. Would you recommend having one of these switches in addition?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Still confused about how to connect the my 12v appliances with the 12v solar AND the 12v converter from shore power. ie. If i'm on shore power, can I just run the 120ac/12vdc converter and use my 120v appliances and 12v appliances? and then when I"m boondocking use the 12v battery/inverter to do the same thing? can I just connect the 12v output from the converter into the 12v fuse block that's connected to the 12v solar batteries?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Great video! Quick question: how does this affect the 12VDC outputs connected to the converter? This is my understanding at this point – When shore power is connected, the converter is powered, which would covert the 120VAC shore power to 12VDC through the converter to power the devices (as well as charge the batteries). When inverter power is connected, the converter is NOT powered, so the 12VDC outputs are being powered from the batteries. Is this correct?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Very helpful, thank you. Curious what size inverter you’re using Tito?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    I enjoy all your videos. Your work is outstanding, explanations are clear. Thanks. My question: how come you installed the transfer switch flat? I was always told and read that a transfer switch can be installed in any position EXCEPT flat, for security reasons.
    Safe travel.

    Reply
  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Thanks, question, my inverter will be about 15 feet from my transfer switch. I'm thinking of routing a 10 gauge extension cord to the transfer switch through my RV chassis. Any suggestions and wiring you used or techniques.

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Did you had your generator wired to the transfer switch? Don’t recall if this upgrade was prior to having your generator removed

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Brian, nice job! Just to be sure, is the 15 amp fuse located in the transfer switch box connected to the output to the AC breaker panel or to the converter/charger?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    hey TITO, @4:45 what if my 1200 watts solar is going through charge controller then to inverter; can't the inverter go into PD4575 charger/converter also? not planning on shore power much at all. but i definitely want to use the 4-stage charger on the PD4575. you said not good for battery to charge battery but what about when they are getting solar charging like i explained? THX!

    Reply
  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Hi Brian … thanks for all your informative vids, they are a real help.
    Question for you – i want to use 12v dc power to run my new iceco refrig/freezer. I am setup with a solar battery bank and output is through an inverter. My promblem is that my inverter does not have a cig lighter socket for dc output.
    How would you setup a solar system to deliver 12v output from battery bank to frig??
    Thank you ahead of time
    aloha, me

    Reply
  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Hello Tito, one question and it may not has to do with your subject, but here we go. (50 amps) When I have my generator running with air conditioners on and I plug in my shore power at the campground, does my transfer switch should take over and switch to shore power? is 40 sec a standard on the transfer switch? I ask this, because when I plug in to shore power and I turn of the generators, by A/C's go off and I have to wait till the safety time turn them back on. I think i have to wait for the time to count down for the shore connection to take over. I think I am turning the Gen to soon. I hope I am making sense here. Great video as always!!!

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Nice piece of kit… But at $220 there is a huge premium you pay for that extra plug/fuse for the converter!… A simple rewiring and adding a plug & fuse to a basic $80 30amp transfer switch would be identical?…

    Reply
  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Thanks, Brian. Love your videos and apply many of them.

    My question is, “Do you even need your legacy charger anymore?”

    It seems your new DC-DC converter or your solar charger should have the batteries all charged up by the time you arrive and plug into shore power. Will you ever actually charge your batteries from shore power?

    Reply
  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Brian, we in the PNW as well and I often see your great locations down near the Columbia river. Can you share where some of these sites are?

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Better yet just unplug the OEM converter and istall an inverter/charger, eliminates the need for the transfer switch.

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    thanks for sharing such wonderful vedio,i like it every much,but i cant get all the information for i am not native,so can you so kind to add English subtitles on the vedio?

    Reply
  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    The 20 second delay is to give time to the generator to run at normal rpm . I bypassed the circuit board so the transfer from low battery charge to short power is instantly. That will only happen if there's not sunlight for a long time and drain the battery below 30%. Otherwise, the solar controller is in charge to keep battery pack at 90% charged.

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    is there a built in circuit breaker in the switch? is that why you don't reconnect to the breaker on the power center? thanks

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  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    This "pre-wired" ATS charges a hefty premium for including a charging cable. This is where the "pre-wire" term is derived. My advice? Save $150 (or more) and DIY the charger wiring. It's really quite simple.

    The time delay is for generator stabilization. When connecting power from a post, this is completely unnecessary.

    For anyone desiring to build their own ATS (which is easily doable), there's really very little savings in doing so. Save yourself the effort and purchase a commercially available unit. Then concentrate on the wiring, including a separate panel with essential loads (not to be powered by inverter).

    Reply
  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Good morning, I just found your channel and it looks good. Nice editing. My wife Emily is from the Philippines, they call me Tito Don and she is Tita Emily. We just sold our Lakewood company and lived in Tacoma many years and are full time RVing (for now) in a class-A Pierce Arrow MH.

    Reply
  • January 9, 2021 at 2:17 pm
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    Safety – It is VERY important to tape those wire nuts for all connections, especially in an RV. Vibration may cause them to fall off, and short against the box, other wires, or ground. It shows you did it, but didn't mention it. Great instruction again, thanks for posting.

    Reply

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