Upgrade to a Smart RV Converter Charger. Is It worth it?
Upgrading your RV to a smart Multi stage Converter Charger is one thing you can do to help your RV batteries last longer and charge faster. Here are the Smart Converters that are tops on my list.
PowerMax 55 . https://amzn.to/2PmihXj
Progressive Dynamics https://amzn.to/2N6P9ln
Progressive Dynamics Lithium . https://amzn.to/2Pt08XD
Victron Inverter/Charger . https://amzn.to/2wdzt8A
GoPower Inverter Charger . https://amzn.to/2PwH8Yy
Xantrex Inverter Charger . https://amzn.to/2ORPhWi
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How do I know what amp and if I have a multi stage converter? I have 2017 Coachman Express TT. Would like to be able to charge batteries faster when boondocking
Jared, I have a 15 year old converter charging 4 -12volt deep cycle acid batteries. I noticed after plugging into a park site for 3 hours one battery was really warm so I checked with my multimeter. Incoming charge voltage was still 14.5 volts. I unplugged the converter and all the batteries read 12.5 volts (fully charged). Could my Converter be bad because it's not lowering the charging voltage?
My new favorite RV channel.
Thank you for being the only one who takes the time to explain this
My 5th wheel camper overcharges batteries. I find yellow on the ground and it gets corrosion on my slides.
Would a different converter fix this?
So i have a wfco distribution panel and was going to upgrade to their lithium converter and i already bought an inverter before i knew i was going to have to change my converter cause the 2 in 1 sound great as i am going to try and hook my inverter to my distribution panel. So do you think o should go with wfco's converter or 1 from a different company or sell my inverter as its brand new and get the 2 in 1?
What about lithium batteries?
Great video! Question: Right now we have a 1200W Xantrax Inverter that only appears to be powering the lights, slides, awnings, that sort of thing. None of our outlets (except the microwave) are hot when on inverter only. Would upgrading the inverter to a higher wattage power some outlets or is the camper hard-wired to only run certain loads regardless? I assume the latter. We have a residential frig that's electric only so we can't even have that powered when traveling or dry camping. Of course the TVs are not powered either. Just curious.
Nice video — My dual 6V Golf Cart Interstate Extreme Cycle (GC2-ECL-UTL) batteries recommend:
Bulk 14.8
Absorb 14.8
Float 13.5
Equalize 15.6 @ 2 hrs
which is a bit higher than most 12V systems — any recommendations?
Can u recommend something like this that is good for a lithium battery set up!!! Not changing a lot but will be upgrading to small lithium battery bank 2-4 depending what my budget works out to!
At your recommendation I just purchased a victron Multiplex 3000/120. I need some clarification. Does the multiplex replace the existing converter? If so do you have a video on how to do that. I dont see in any of your drawings of how to route around it. Look forward to your reply
What if my starter battery is lead-acid but my house battery is lifepo4?
As always, excellent content. Thanks for sharing.
There is one stage that cannot be turned off on some chargers. DE-SULPHATION. Unless you have conventional lead-acid batteries this cycle will ruin your batteries. Some chargers are intelligent enough to NOT de-sulphate a sealed lead acid battery yet others will automatically run the cycle every 30 days or so. Look for dip switches to turn that cycle off if you do not want it to surprise your poor batteries.
If is possible too, can you help me?
I am in the design phase to transform a Sprinter 211 cdi, new (2021), L1H1, all a little tight !!!!, but perfect for use here in Europe and exploring small towns, easy to park … etc
But now I got to the point of doing the electrical project, which I'm not used to doing, I'm a civil engineer, I understand 110 / 220v AC circuits.
I wish you could help me with that part.
I'm Brazilian, but I also live a lot here in Portugal, where I'm going to do the conversion.
Well, I started making a spreadsheet, with the equipment, the necessary power and time of daily use, I have no intention of filling the motorhome with things, not least because it is a Sprinter L1H1, and I would like to have a simple electrical installation, but I would not like have gas inside, so I would prefer a stove with only one induction zone.
To heat the water it would be a D6 truma, which is diesel.
But from the calculations I made and compared with others I saw on the net, it seems that it ends up consuming a lot of energy, making the electrical part more expensive.
I don't want to spend so much just because of induction.
I don't know what other electrical equipment I would still need for everything to work, still using the car's alternator and an external 220v point when stopped at a camping site.
In your opinion, which a good configuration sufficient to have a quick meal, with induction and stay out of the network for a day or two?which a good configuration sufficient to have a quick meal, with induction and stay out of the network for a day or two?
Well, the result of the spreadsheet was:
220V equipment
notebook – 65w – 1 hour of use – 5.4 Ah
induction cooker – 1800w – 0,4 hour of use – 60 Ah
12V equipment
USB – 50w – 1 hour of use – 4.2 Ah
refrigerator – 45w – 8 hours of use – 30 Ah
lights – 15w – 3 hours of use – 1.3 Ah
water pump – 42 w – 0.5 hours of use – 1.8 Ah
exhaust fan wc – 40 w – 1 hour of use – 3.3 Ah
I will be very grateful if you can help me by presenting an wiring electrical diagram with the necessary equipment.
I appreciate if you answer.
my address is: joaolp55 @ gmail com
Thanks
Thanks for the explanations in the video. But I have a doubt: how to calculate the power of the battery charger when the campervan is connected to an external source, in a camping. what the specifications of this charger are. thanks
Maybe I missed this explanation: We have upgraded to four golfcart batteries. At 215Ah a piece x 4, we have 860AH with 430AH usable. I've seen the 10% rule, the 30% rule and multiple other thoughts about what size to get. On that power max-you can buy a 45, 75, or 100. Will I do damage to these batteries if I do the 100? It seems like it would charge the batteries faster on a genny.
Amazing
i got a 500w black & decker cigarette lighter plug-in inverter for my 130w laptop only to find out that I can't use the laptop on it(pops the inverters breaker), only charge the laptop with it. Any idea what that's about?
If you have a 50 amp system then is it a 50 amp converter you buy or larger?
Good explanation, but question, if I have led acid batteries but plan on upgrading in the future to lithium is there no option to replace the converter to one that does both, and if I put in the Victron inverter/converter do I need to also replace the converter? And does the Victron handle different battery types?
BOY do I wish I had seen this a few months ago! Put an older charger (10 amp) on my brand new wet lead plate battery, and forgot about it, until I saw the battery smoking. Killed that battery, wasted money, put our “home away from home” in a precarious position. AND I had to get a new battery. Lesson learned.
Hey Jared, thanks so much for this information. Do you know if the PowerMax 55 that you've recommended on this video will work with a 30 Amp system? If not, can you direct me to a converter that will please? Also, I have a 2018 (year) Lance 2375 (model) that does not currently have solar, but I plan on adding at some point. Do you know if I will have to do an additional upgrade to my converter when I decide to add solar? Thanks in advance for your input! BTW, I really appreciate your videos and and explanations of how things work and your advice on what works best for various RV applications. Keep up the great work!
Good explanation with examples that make it easy to understand batteries and converters.
Outstanding video. My OEM controller failed a week ago, now going thru this exact decision process. Greatly appreciated.
Thanks man! Good info. Think our converter died this weekend so I’m looking to upgrade
Love your channel! How did you add the outlet?? About to go full time and want to add an outlet behind the toilet for an electric bidet. Can not find videos on adding an outlet to the RV…..
You are talking about a changer and not a converter at the title suggestes
Can I use this to Power my 40amps dc to dc charger ? I want to use this in the context of charging my Lithium batteries (via the dc-dc charger powered by the converter)
thanks for the info! i just replaced my converter
Question – trying to choose between the powermax and the progressive. What did you like better about the progressive (AGM batteries)? Based on their descriptions they seem similar but powermax is half the price. Great Video btww, like all your videos!
I used a 4 stage boondocker model 60 amp in my last rv and it worked great. Had dual 6v batteries and kept them in tip top shape and after several years still going. In my new trailer I will do the same. Maybe this time a 100amp boondock with dual 6v.
Excellent info. Thanks again!
Thanks.
Well Done
My travel trailer came with a WFCO WF-8735 Power Center. The converter has three-stage charging and is fully automatic. I can use lead-acid or AGM batteries with this converter. I leave the RV plugged in to shore power in our driveway when the RV is not in use. I have checked my batteries and they are still full and holding a charge just fine. We've owned the Coachmen Apex Nano 208BHS for almost two years now. Seems okay to me. https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-8735-35-amp/
What can cause a converter to fail? Thank you.
Is the powermax 55 ok to install in my 30 amp Travel Trailer?
Can a single stage converter charge an AGM battery?
Good Day,
I just subscribed to your channel. I have watched may of your videos, thank you for your expertise. I have a question, I have a dual battery setup wired in parallel (2 Duracell AGM's) 12 Volts.
I purchased a Victron BMV-712 battery monitor. I am upgrading the OEM converter to a multi stage unit. Can you please clarify where my grounds go in the setup when installing the Victron Shunt?
If all grounds terminate at the far end of the shunt what about the items in the coach that are grounded to the chassis? I understand that the negatives attach at the end of the shunt to be measured but is there a chassis ground and where is that taking place. I noticed blocks on the chassis with negatives attaching to it. I also thought of installing a bus bar and connecting all grounds to that bar and then to the shunt. Please provide some insight, sorry to be so long winded.
Best
Frank