How To Level Your RV Fast And Accurate!

28 thoughts on “How To Level Your RV Fast And Accurate!”

• watching the video on installingrv leveking jacks
  question. best location for thejacks. looks like in the video they were installed close to end of framevs closer to the tires

• Amazing information!!!

• Where do you put the level?

• Just a long 6 min. Commercial to sell you some wheel chocks and an electronic level. This shameless plug of a product does not actually tell you HOW to basically level an RV.

• How to level your rig by spending 270.00. No thank you.

• This was just an advertisement for wheel levels and some device you put in your RV. Nothing about leveling without them.

• Hey, thanks Jared. Wondering if when you mount the sensor module it needs to have any particular orientation; i.e., should it be mounted on a wall parallel to the length of the RV or parallel to the width of the RV? What about a diagonal wall?

• What if you don’t have a way to move a fifth wheel and its canted at a side angle. I ordered the kits with those blocks a pair of heavy duty scissor jacks and 4 spin mount jacks for stability but I wasn’t here when it was delivered and it’ll be a while till I can level it myself. I guess I could hire someone to reposition it but after looking underneath it and seeing what I got coming I think I could do it without having a truck for it yet.

• Well, I can see why people do this, but to me it's a bit overkill and, at least for us – probably a waste of money… I bought a .50c 4ft level from a garage sale that I put on my rear bumper to get a completely level side/side every time we park – it's exactly 4ft long, and my bumper is exactly 8ft. Which means it's super easy, if it's 1.5" out over 4ft that means the full length between axles is exactly 3" out, meaning 2 2×6's to level perfectly. Completely free. Done. Once that is done I take the level and run it along the frame while someone simply uses the power jack to take that to level, and you're perfect on all 4 corners. Takes like 3 mins total. It does take 2 people though, that is the one downside. But saves a ton of $$, and actually (now that we're good at it) – takes NO MORE TIME than doing the way in this video

• Just tell how to not why, I already know why

• Some scary comments here. The only place that level matters in your trailer is your fridge and it's the only part of your trailer that is guaranteed to be leveled to itself, best way to level your unit is to either put a level in your freezer or calibrate that thing when your freezer is level. The freezers the best flat spot in a gas absorption fridge

• Please Share a link to get the LevelMate Pro!! Thanks!

• This is a low key level mate pro commercial.

• The intro description of why you have to level your RV to make sure your Hydrogen/Ammonia refer works correctly, leaves a little to be desired but I guess it's insignificant to the discussion of leveling itself. You can ruin your refer by running it with the RV significantly out of level while running it off LP. The reason is, the LP flame that heats the boil plate can scorch the sides of the tubes and cause the interior coating to flake off, eventually plugging up the orifice at the bottom. Over all a really good video.

• Jared, You THE MAN! Wish I had watched this before my last camping trip. Now I have to buy at least two new stabilizers (if not replace all four). Bruh!

• We have been using these levelers on our 5th wheel for 4 years. I added a little item to mine. In the large curved part I drilled a parachute cord size hole in the center of the largest recess. I put a 2 ft length of cord through the hole with a knot on each end. This allows the cord to be pulled out on either side. Then I drilled a similar hole in both sides of the chock part. The cord is used when we are removing the levelers. The person pulling out the chock can pull the cord and not need to get your fingers close to the tire. then when I reverse the cords on the leveler part are pulled out as well. I haven't tried this yet, but, it might be possible to place a stake and tie the chocks to the stake with a bungee cord so that pressure is removed, the chock will pull out and then reverse and a cord could pull out the leveler part. This would be useful on a dual axle trailer by a single person.

• How do you level your rig the first time?

• bro, calibrate it before installing. because level is level. its best to do it on something easy like a level concrete surface first, before installing it inside trailer

• I use a soda or beer can and just put it on the floor

• I have not had any luck with the level mate pro. I am going to give it one more try but I have calibrated it twice but both times I have then used it to level during my next camping trip it has been WAY off. Not even close. Going to try a new battery in it and see if that works.

• Do NOT use your phone for leveling. I tried this and the weight of the trailer immediately crushed it!

• I wish I could afford that kind of setup. $350 for the levelmate pro and another $132 for the Andersen levelers… But I bet it sure would rock!

• What if you don't have a helper; can you pull up the level and then put the parking brake on and run out and put the chocks in?

• another very educational video. Excellent work. Thank you.

• Jarred, this video, like all of your videos are well thought out and executed, Great Job! I think that I will purchase both based on your recommendation much like my Battleborn batteries that you suggested in another video. You are a true inspiration to YouTube, keep up the great work/videos!

• We chose the RV Level 4 from madebyjoe . It uses 5v usb power that most trailers have now unlike the batteries you need for level mate pro. It's also a bit cheaper.

• Appreciate the video!! Good stuff.

• 140.00 a tad on the expensive side . I will stick with torpedo level

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