The angle lites do work with gfi I have them on one in my home for over a year and when I bought my new motor home I installed one into bathroom with gif, so not sure what you’re saying bout them not working gfi.
Do you really need a UPS for all of your outlets and do you really want another set of expensive batteries to have to deal with? My guess is that depends on how much of your rig is 12V and how much is 120V. In my case 120V is A/C and microwave. My notebook runs from one of these:
You need to find an old dead notebook power supply you can loot for the cable with the barrel connector on it and you need to adjust the output of the regulator down to 16-18V with a DVM. Most notebooks are happy with that.
As far as the TV what I would do, is I would find a small free UPS that the UPS still works in but the batteries are cooked. I would invest in a big stud diode and run the UPS off my house battery with the diode there to keep the charger in the UPS from screwing with my smart converter/charger and I would have it only run to one outlet for the entertainment stuff.
I tend to be very cheap and resourceful.
The only little dilemma I had was with the notebook, and if it was better to run it off it's adapter on 120V or DC. DC won out because without any dicking around I can get DC out of a cig lighter in any car, and I keep the AC adapter in my case so if I am at a friends house or hotel have power there too.
Great video! Changing my outlets over too. But I've hit a bump in the road. I have a couple of outlets I'd like to expand from single to double (two duplex receptacles instead of one), but nobody makes a shallow double box due to a code issue from what I've read. The Carlon blue plastic shallow box works fine for a single outlet, but not available as a double. Can't use two singles side-by-side because the cover plate won't fit. Any ideas other than just doing two separate outlets? Keep up the good work!
i had the same thing happen to my 30 amp power cord using one of them yellow cord end, you would be safer to buy a new power cord rather than using that cord end.
I found your video very informative and will look into getting a server UPS for my rig. I laugh so hard seeing the end of your video. Keep up the good work. I give you 2 thumbs up… I'd give more but I was only born with 2… LOL
The original molded 30A plug on an RV is water tight and not prone to corrosion like the hollow replacement plug you showed. When the factory plug gets damaged, a whole new cord costs less than $50.00 and it will last many years. Sticking a plug on the end is only a temporary fix.
Replacing burned and melted plugs and outlets is like repeatedly pumping air into a leaking tire…it doesn't address the cause of the problem. Physical arcing/melting damage to electrical connectors usually means something somewhere is wrong, probably an overload, which often is caused by a loose connection somewhere downstream in the system. I'd check all connections in my transfer box, power management box, breaker panel and any outlet that uses a big appliance. Those typical snap-together rv ourlets are notorious for arcing because of the wires being shoved into a v-shaped notch of thin brass which gives small contact for high amperage use. I installed similar outlets in my home when I built it and had to replace them all within one year because of arcing. That type outlet fed my fridge in my rv and because of the vent behind it got continually splashed by muddy road water causing minor leakage of current between terminals which electroplated all the copper wires with brass. I've replaced some of those outlets with residential outlets inside plastic boxes. It's difficult because of the dimensions of the boxes but doable.
Thank you so much, Big Reggie! You shared some valuable, life saving tips, ways to keep insects out (I use an old paperweight ;-), and God bless you for keeping it short & sweet. Glad you kept adding info as you went along because it was good! I subscribed. Happy trails!
That little gizmo that buzzes when the power is out. Do you have a link on Amazon or somewhere else? In a reply, you show a link, but it's not the same model at all… Thanks
It’s a shame about this. I can tell you know your stuff and there are lots of good tips but it’s so disorganized! and the camera jerking around makes me seasick. 🤢
You obviously are skilled in electric, and offer great tips, but waving your hand constantly while talking and moving your camera from point to point so fast shows you have a long way to go in creating videos that enable people to follow not only what you say but what you are showing. Thank you for sharing.
Install CO detectors at your knee height. Never position carbon monoxide detectors on the ceiling like you would smoke detectors. Carbon monoxide blends with your home’s air and does not rise. Follow your manufacturer’s manual to properly install your detector at the right height. Remember to keep kids and pets in mind during installation.
I'm not criticizing but this is an example of when the RV becomes the hobby rather than a tool for a hobby.
The angle lites do work with gfi I have them on one in my home for over a year and when I bought my new motor home I installed one into bathroom with gif, so not sure what you’re saying bout them not working gfi.
Thanks for putting this video out
adapter than a comment you can watch several of my RV tips videos on YouTube
Do you really need a UPS for all of your outlets and do you really want another set of expensive batteries to have to deal with? My guess is that depends on how much of your rig is 12V and how much is 120V. In my case 120V is A/C and microwave. My notebook runs from one of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/150W-DC-DC-Boost-Converter-10-32V-to-12-35V-6A-Step-Up-Voltage-Charger-Power-AT/292409304867?epid=587742398&hash=item4414f3e723:g:r1cAAOSw301aXF85
You need to find an old dead notebook power supply you can loot for the cable with the barrel connector on it and you need to adjust the output of the regulator down to 16-18V with a DVM. Most notebooks are happy with that.
As far as the TV what I would do, is I would find a small free UPS that the UPS still works in but the batteries are cooked. I would invest in a big stud diode and run the UPS off my house battery with the diode there to keep the charger in the UPS from screwing with my smart converter/charger and I would have it only run to one outlet for the entertainment stuff.
I tend to be very cheap and resourceful.
The only little dilemma I had was with the notebook, and if it was better to run it off it's adapter on 120V or DC. DC won out because without any dicking around I can get DC out of a cig lighter in any car, and I keep the AC adapter in my case so if I am at a friends house or hotel have power there too.
Hahahaha! Great vid! Solid info!
Anything on living in snowy weather an living in camper
that opening made me laugh!
Just subscribed. Hope all of your vids have little nuggets like this one.
Great video! Changing my outlets over too. But I've hit a bump in the road. I have a couple of outlets I'd like to expand from single to double (two duplex receptacles instead of one), but nobody makes a shallow double box due to a code issue from what I've read. The Carlon blue plastic shallow box works fine for a single outlet, but not available as a double. Can't use two singles side-by-side because the cover plate won't fit. Any ideas other than just doing two separate outlets? Keep up the good work!
So basically you've just exposed that the entire RV industry are electrically incompetent.
Well done.
Great info, I feel your pain, I live in central Florida, Not quite that hot but add 100 % humidity… Keep up the great work. New subscriber
I thought this would be too much work, and now I know for sure. Renting! ☺
In the uk, new motorhome builders have to install a smoke alarm a lpg alarm a co alarm and a knockout gas alarm. Good video.
thanks
I'm looking to convert a toy cargo trailer to an RV and I learned so much from you. I will look up your other videos too.
i had the same thing happen to my 30 amp power cord using one of them yellow cord end, you would be safer to buy a new power cord rather than using that cord end.
Are you any where near Auburn, AL? Thanks!
I found your video very informative and will look into getting a server UPS for my rig. I laugh so hard seeing the end of your video. Keep up the good work. I give you 2 thumbs up… I'd give more but I was only born with 2… LOL
The original molded 30A plug on an RV is water tight and not prone to corrosion like the hollow replacement plug you showed. When the factory plug gets damaged, a whole new cord costs less than $50.00 and it will last many years. Sticking a plug on the end is only a temporary fix.
Fatty i like you keep it up
Love the video straight to the point!! I am in the process of thinking about owning my own.
A hubble connection might be more expensive, but they are a industrial product that can handle the current for many years.
Oh my gosh!!! The vertigo!!!!! I had to close my eyes to listen.
Never seen those angel light covers before, very cool even for yopur house!
another tip Open up your plug in and give a coating of dialectric grease to all of the contacts
Replacing burned and melted plugs and outlets is like repeatedly pumping air into a leaking tire…it doesn't address the cause of the problem. Physical arcing/melting damage to electrical connectors usually means something somewhere is wrong, probably an overload, which often is caused by a loose connection somewhere downstream in the system. I'd check all connections in my transfer box, power management box, breaker panel and any outlet that uses a big appliance. Those typical snap-together rv ourlets are notorious for arcing because of the wires being shoved into a v-shaped notch of thin brass which gives small contact for high amperage use. I installed similar outlets in my home when I built it and had to replace them all within one year because of arcing. That type outlet fed my fridge in my rv and because of the vent behind it got continually splashed by muddy road water causing minor leakage of current between terminals which electroplated all the copper wires with brass. I've replaced some of those outlets with residential outlets inside plastic boxes. It's difficult because of the dimensions of the boxes but doable.
Thank you so much, Big Reggie! You shared some valuable, life saving tips, ways to keep insects out (I use an old paperweight ;-), and God bless you for keeping it short & sweet. Glad you kept adding info as you went along because it was good! I subscribed. Happy trails!
Great info! Especially love the end ….Had a good laugh!! Thank you, Sunshine 🔆
Did your UPS not alert if it doesn’t have line power? Most do.
carbon monoxide detector should be 5ft or less off floor
Excellent tips. Going to start changing out my outlets and in addition get those led outlet covers. Ups unit great idea
The electrical feed. Polish your contacts and use a decent copper paste so resistance stays low.
Tell me about that shower extender and that little device you just shared I’m thinking about getting both
That little gizmo that buzzes when the power is out. Do you have a link on Amazon or somewhere else? In a reply, you show a link, but it's not the same model at all… Thanks
It’s a shame about this. I can tell you know your stuff and there are lots of good tips but it’s so disorganized! and the camera jerking around makes me seasick. 🤢
Very informative Rick. I love your show, Pawn Stars!
Thank you, most don't know the electrical part of these RVs. I do because my dad was an electrician
Dam you babble…
You obviously are skilled in electric, and offer great tips, but waving your hand constantly while talking and moving your camera from point to point so fast shows you have a long way to go in creating videos that enable people to follow not only what you say but what you are showing. Thank you for sharing.
Why does every youtuber try and create a shitload of background noise when talking…? Makes no f'ing sense!
Install CO detectors at your knee height. Never position carbon monoxide detectors on the ceiling like you would smoke detectors. Carbon monoxide blends with your home’s air and does not rise. Follow your manufacturer’s manual to properly install your detector at the right height. Remember to keep kids and pets in mind during installation.